Apart from soaking up the atmosphere, exploring the hills and their rock art is the main reason to come here. For both you'd be wise, if possible, to take a local guide with you – which also helps to give the small local community some income in an area where there must be very few other opportunities for paid work.

Hiring a guide

On my last visit, I drove to the San village and, with sign gestures and improvisation, tried to ask for a guide. The man of the family that I was speaking to eventually sent me off with two of the children, a boy called Xashee, aged 10, and a girl called Tsetsana, aged 16.

At first I thought that I'd been fobbed off with the children, who were silent in the presence of their family. However, as soon as we got into our car to drive back to the hills, it transpired that Tsetsana was on holiday from school, and spoke excellent English. Her brother spoke much less to us, but seemed to know more of the sites with rock art.

They bounded up the hills with bare feet faster than we could in walking boots. They knew their way about very well and although we only followed on the 'standard' trails, we would have missed many of the paintings without their help.

The trails

There are four trails that I know of on the hills: the Rhino Trail, the Cliff Trail, the Lion Trail and the Male Hill Trail. That said, one source refers to there being six trails, and several sources refer to the 'Divuyu Trail,' which I don't think exists! The best source for information will be the office at the hills, which was closed when I last visited. I'd welcome detailed descriptions of the routes, preferably with GPS positions of all the paintings, from any readers who have time to explore these trails and write to me about them.

The Rhino Trail is marked with sturdy numbered posts, indexed for a series of annotated route plans that are, apparently, being produced. I believe that Alec Campbell, a world-renowned authority on both African rock art and Botswana, has written them – and the national museum is meant to be producing them. However, these have been 'in production' for so long that some doubt if they will ever be seen. If you can get hold of one, I'd expect them to be the best guide to the hills.

The best sites for rock art are on the Female Hill, and especially towards its north end. The hills are a place to explore for yourself, preferably with a local guide. Here are a few notes from my own observations. I'm aware they may contain errors as well as omissions, but I hope that they'll spur readers to explore – and perhaps send me any corrections or additional comments.

Rhino Trail

This is the only one of the trails that the author has walked, and it starts from the close to the Squirrel Valley Campsite

Cliff Trail

This is at the north end of Female Hill, and to find the start try heading north on the track to Malatso Campsite, and then turn right at (GPS: MLTURN). You'll reach the steep base of the cliffs, about 50m away, where there's a turning circle for vehicles.

The trail appears to circle clockwise around the northern part of the Female Hill, before taking a shortcut back to near its start over a col. I'd welcome a detailed description of this route and its paintings from anyone who has completed it (with GPS locations if possible).

Lion Trail

This is a trail that stays at ground level, and doesn't include any climbing. It overlaps with some of the Rhino Trail's paintings at the base of the south end of the Female Hill, as well as visiting sites on the north side of the Male Hill. To find its start point, take the vehicle track which heads east between the Male and Female Hills, and then turn right to find a turning-circle for vehicles at the base of the Male Hill.

Male Hill Trail

This starts from the same place as the Lion Trail, though eventually goes up and over the top of the Male Hill, including some strenuous scrambles.