From Kalabo

First head to the 'harbour' (GPS:HARKAL) to get your permits from the new office there, and take the pontoon across the Luanginga River. This manual pontoon costs about US$3/Kw15,000 per crossing for light vehicles, and US$4/Kw20,000 for heavier ones; there's usually an adjacent rowing boat which ferries pedestrians.

On the north side of the pontoon, the track splits and you should head for route markers (GPS:LIUWAP), which you'll pass after barely 500m, and then for (GPS:LIUWA2), which is a further 3km away. You'll then be on the right track. There are a few small villages, but little game along the early part of this drive. The route is frequented by many lilac-breasted rollers, which brighten up the tops of trees along the roadside, giving dazzling flashes of blue as they fly.

Beneath you is deep Kalahari sand, and the driving is a very steady, slow plod in low-range third or fourth gear, with an average speed of about 15km/h. From the pontoon it's about 13km north and slightly east to the park entrance (GPS:LIUWAP) – which consists of a simple signboard.

Shortly afterwards there is a small fork in the track (GPS:LIFORK), from which both branches continue into the park. The right branch takes you on a track which continues all the way to Matamanene Camp – and given the increased traffic that is likely travel this way (it's the way to African Parks' base in Liuwa), this might be the best one to follow.

However, on my last visit I took the left branch, which continues towards waypoint (GPS:LIUWA3). As you get further into the park the trees start to spread out, grouping themselves into small, slightly raised islands, surrounded by a sea of knee-to-thigh-deep golden grass. Carry on for a further 10km or so after the entrance board to (GPS:LIUWA), by which time you're basically out of the trees, and on to the southern edge of the plain. Here, the track into the park starts to become much less distinct – and ultimately vanishes. (If you're coming back out of the park, then head for this point to pick up the track out.)

Whichever fork you take, you should expect two or three hours of rough, sandy driving after you leave the pontoon before you are well into the park. The good news is that although getting into the park is a slow slog through deep sand, most of the tracks within the park are generally much firmer, easier and more pleasant to drive. Enjoy!