Tel: 04 455166
This relaxed backpackers' retreat has become something of a legend with overlanders, largely because of its total lack of competition in Mpulungu and its laid-back owner, Denish. There are very basic clean chalets here, and campsites. Both showers and toilets are shared and separate. Beer is available, as is scrupulously boiled water. Food must be ordered in advance if required; expect a simple one-dish meal to cost around Kw20,000.

To find it, either ask one of the locals, or follow the tar road past the main bus/market area. The road climbs a hill, and you should follow one of the paths to your right which goes up and over to the other side of the hill, to around Andreas Fisheries Ltd and the beach-side market. Then turn right and follow the road parallel to the lakeshore, keeping the water on your left and reasonably close. You'll find Nkupi Lodge on your right in a few hundred yards, surrounded by a good fence.