(7 twin chalets) PO Box 34065, Lusaka; tel: 01 235382; fax: 235381; email: firstname.lastname@example.org; web: http://dive-tanganyika.com
This is run by Toby Veall (it was often referred to simply as Toby's Lodge) and was Zambia's first upmarket lodge on the lake. It originally started as Toby's base for catching aquarium fish for export – a business he's still involved with. At first curious aquarists arrived for trips, and then the lodge gradually developed to having seven twin-bed thatch-on-stone chalets, each with its own flush toilet, shower and solar-powered lighting. The main activities here were fishing and snorkelling, and the underwater visibility in the lodge's area is excellent. Walks from the lodge to the Kalambo Falls (about 90 minutes away) were also popular. The lodge is 16km from Mpulungu, close to the Kalambo River, and is reached by a short boat transfer or water-taxi.
Sadly, the lodge has recently been closed. However, Toby is still up on the lake, catching fish for aquaria, and is reported as trying to sell it. If you were flying in with a small group of aquatic enthusiasts, and paying handsomely for the privilege, then Toby might even be persuaded to open the lodge up for a few days. But if you're just passing through then ask Mrs Neilson at the Caltex station for the latest news. If/when it reopens properly it may again be a super place to stay.