Zambia Travel Guide
Zambia Travel Guide
>
Bangweulu Area
>
Three main towns
>
Mkushi
>
Excursions

Zambia Travel Guide

Excursions



There are two interesting sites to the north of Mkushi, and one to the south, though you'll need a self-sufficient 4WD to reach any of them. If heading north, note the proximity of the sites to the border with DRC (ex Zaire), and check the security situation locally before you go. Make sure that you don't inadvertently drive too far, which would be surprisingly easy to do. Explaining an illegal entry into DRC might not be fun.

Finally, if you are staying here, you're also within reach of Nsalu Cave and the Kundalila Falls, mentioned under Around Kasanka and Bangweulu.

Changwena Falls


This is a very pretty waterfall, near to Fort Elwes and Mount Mumpu. It's about two hours north of Mkushi, accessible using a bush track road through a forest reserve. These tracks are highly seasonal, so do ask for local directions from Mkushi before you set off.

The falls themselves are where a small stream leaves its dambo and cascades through a series of three rock pools. The rocks around are a very attractive copper colour, helping to make this remote spot very beautiful. Camping is allowed, and from there you can climb Mumpu and easily visit Fort Elwes (see below).

Fort Elwes


Almost on the border with the DRC, Fort Elwes lies about 40km northeast of Mkushi at an altitude of 1,600m. The tracks to get there are in poor condition; ask local directions before you embark upon this trip.

The fort was built around 1896–97 by Europeans who came to seek gold in the area west of the Luangwa Valley. They feared reprisals from the local Ngoni people, if (as planned) the British attacked them near Chipata and the Ngoni were forced west.

It's an impressive structure, with superb views of the hills in the surrounding area. Four huge dry-stone walls, some 2m thick and 3m high, form a rectangular structure, which originally had a single entrance under one of them. Today it's disintegrating, but a few remnants of the original wooden structures still survive. The National Monuments of Zambia booklet (see Bibliography) attributes the building to Frank Smitheman.

Wonder Gorge


This is a spectacular and steep gorge marking where the Mkushi River meets the Lunsemfwa, as both cut through deep (300m) gorges into the sedimentary rocks of the Muchinga escarpment. It is east of Kabwe, and about 130km south of Mkushi, further south than what is known as Old Mkushi.

The best vantage point is Bell Point. It was apparently named after a Miss Grace Bell, a friend of the first European to see the gorge, who visited in 1913. The easiest approach is from the south. Bell Point is technically a National Monument but entry is free and there are places you can camp. It's in a very rural, remote area so you'll need a reliable and sturdy 4WD, good maps of the area, and someone to come and look for you if you get stuck.

To get there from the south, drive to Kabwe and turn right just before you cross the railway on the town's southern side. Follow this road parallel to the railway, cross a railway sidetrack, then swing left and cross a bigger railway crossing. On the other side are two roads; take the dirt track on the right signposted 'Mulungushi Boat Club 55km'. There's a good campsite at the club. Otherwise, continue beyond that turn across the Mulungushi, following the power lines north-east to Kampumba and on to Lunsemfwa. Crossing the bridge over the Lunsemfwa, take the RD204 to Old Mkushi.

The turn for Bell Point, a good track on the right that seems to head back the way you came, lies around 20km from Lunsemfwa. Bell Point itself is 35km away from this turning. After 1km there's a fork: take the right track. Ignore all turn-offs for 21km then, following an area of farmland, take a left on to a less-used track. The last village on the route lies at 22km, after which the scenery grows ever more beautiful despite the presence of a car wreck at 32km (a casualty, so it is said, of the Rhodesian War). At Bell Point you can either scramble down to the bottom to keep exploring the gorge, or get to a vantage point and sit and enjoy. The latter is recommended.


^ Top of page