This huge semi-circular cave, cut into Nsalu Hill, stands about 50m above the level of the surrounding plateau, and contains some excellent San/Bushmen rock paintings. Sadly a few years back the caves were vandalised, but since then the graffiti are fading much faster than the paintings, so once again most of the paintings can still be seen.

Archaeological investigations have demonstrated occupation for at least 20,000 years, firstly by Middle and Late Stone-Age people, and later by Iron-Age settlers. The oldest paintings are in yellow and include parallel lines, circles and loops. Later drawings were executed in rust-coloured paint, and even later ones in red and white paints used together. The last paints applied appear as grey-white pigments and have been applied rather clumsily. They contain animal fats and are thought to have been the work of Iron-Age settlers within the last 2,000 years.

When you've finished looking at the paintings, the view from the cave's mouth over the surrounding countryside is great – and if you've lots of energy then a scramble to the top gives an even better view.

Getting there

Head north on the Great North Road and take a left turn (GPS: TU1NSA) at the signpost for Nsalu Cave. This is between Serenje and Mpika, about 30km northeast of Kanona (where you turn to Kundalila Falls) and 15km north of Chitambo Mission Hospital.

Follow this road north for about 14km and then turn left at the rather marvellous sign to 'National Nonument' (GPS: TU2NSA). After a further 8km this track ends and the cave (GPS: NSALUC) is visible about halfway up the hill, on which a walking trail is marked. In theory there's a caretaker around to look after the cave, and he may charge a small entry fee – though often there's nobody around. The cave is about half an hour's drive from the main road.

If you continue north on this road, past the 'National Nonument' sign, then you're heading to Lake Waka Waka, Chiundaponde and the Bangweulu Wetlands.