This plain stone monument, under a simple cross, marks the place where David Livingstone's heart was buried in 1873. He died from dysentery and malaria in the village of Chitambo. Here his followers removed his heart and internal organs, and buried them under a mupundu tree that once stood where this monument is now.
In an amazing tribute, his two closest followers, Susi and Chuma, salted and dried his body before disguising it in a tree and carrying it over 1,000 miles to Bagamoyo (on Tanzania's coast). This journey took them about nine months. From there they took Livingstone by ship to London, and he was finally buried with full honours in Westminster Abbey on April 18 1874.
In 1899, the Royal Geographical Society in London sent out a small expedition to cut the tree down and bring a section of its trunk, which had been engraved with the names of Livingstone and three of his party, to London. There it remains to this day. The village has since moved, but a memorial now stands to mark the spot where Livingstone's heart was buried.
You should also stop at the clinic on the way to the memorial to sign the visitor's book, where you may also have to pay a small entry fee.
The present Chief Chitambo, Freddy Chisenga, is the great grandson of the chief who received Livingstone. If you are lucky, and willing to pay him for his time and energy, then he will guide you from his home in Chalilo village to the memorial at Chipundu.
The monument is clearly marked (if sometimes vaguely positioned) on most maps. The easiest route is to turn north from the Great North Road on to the Chinese Road at (GPS: TUCHIN – it's signposted to Mansa and Samfya. Then turn right about 10km after the sign for Kasanka National Park, which is about 65km after you turned off the Great North Road. There is a signpost and sometimes a small market at this turning (GPS: TULIVI).
Follow the main track here for 1km, turning left at Chalilo School (there's a sign to the chief's palace). After 500m, bear right to avoid the chief's palace, or left if you want to visit the chief. Then continue straight on for about a further 25km and the memorial is signposted near Chipundu School. You'll find it at (GPS: LIVMEM)
On your return, it's best to avoid forking left along the old road which is marked on many maps, as this takes a very long time to get back to the tarmac road. It is, however, a useful short cut if you're heading towards Lake Waka Waka or the Bangweulu Wetlands.