Park fees: US$15 per person per day; US$3 per vehicle per day

Kafue is a huge national park: two and a half times the size of South Luangwa. Sadly, in the '80s and early '90s, few resources were devoted to its upkeep and anti-poaching efforts were left to a couple of dedicated souls from the few safari lodges that remained in the park.

Now the situation is better. Although some of the camps mentioned are not fully operational, those that are bring a steady trickle of visitors into the park – which help add weight (and finance) to the ongoing effort to build the park back up to its former glory. Even the park's elephants are visibly recovering (both in number and in terms of losing some of their shyness), although it will be a while before they return to their former strength. It is very heartening to see that the rest of the game is thriving, and occurring in a volume and variety that denies any problems have ever existed here.

Few of the camps here are as plush or well-oiled as the corresponding camps in the Luangwa, but in Kafue's best areas the game is at least as good. In particular, game viewing on and around the Busanga Plains can be stunning, so don't visit without at least a side-trip into this remarkable area.