Where to stay
You can camp at one of the national park's sites (ask the scouts for directions – and note that these have minimal facilitates) or there is one simple self-catering camp here, so bring all your supplies with you. Nakeenda Lodge
(4 two-person chalets) Contact via Mukambi Safari Lodge
This old-style self-catering lodge is based around the simple refurbished farmhouse of the Critchleys, behind which there are four thatched chalets each containing a bedroom and a bathroom with flush toilet, washbasin and shower. Water is heated by wood-fired boilers, and although there's a small generator here, most of the lighting is by paraffin lamps. This is right next to the old causeway, which has lovely views over the flats.
You must bring your own food, but cooking utensils, crockery, cutlery and (borehole) water are provided, along with bedding and towels.
There are extensive plans to upgrade this around 2005. If and when that happens facilities will improve, and I'd expect prices to go up at the same time.