When you are exhausted from all the sightseeing, shopping and other diversions, relief is only a phone call away. If your idea of the ultimate massage is in a billowing white tent on the banks of the Zambezi with spray from the Falls and hippos as backdrop, then the Royal Livingstone Hotel (tel: 03 321121–7, ext 2546) is the place to go. Its Royal Salon offers riverside massages (Swedish, aromatherapy, sportsman's, Zambian Ukuchina and more) in stylish tented gazebos, each with one side open to the river and two massage beds. A trained masseuse offers what has to be one of the world's most scenic ways to unwind, though such divine pampering isn't cheap: expect to pay upwards of US$65 per person for an hour. Also available within the salon itself are all the usual spa services: manicures, pedicures, facials, waxing, basic hair care and beauty products, all catering to foreign visitors and priced accordingly. It's open 10.00 to 19.00 daily. In town, Zig Zag offers Shiatsu and aromatherapy massage and manicures and pedicures by appointment (tel: 03 322814). These are done by a trained specialist at about a third of the price of the Royal Salon.

In Victoria Falls, Spa Hair and Beauty (tel: +263 11 200 466 or 13 44275/9, ext 6023) offers similar services with convenient locations inside the Kingdom Hotel, Elephant Hills Hotel and Victoria Falls Hotel.