Again, Monze is another small town with little of note except a couple of fuel stations, though 16km to the west of the town is the site of Fort Monze, which was one of the first police posts established in Zambia by the colonial powers. (Access is now only possible in the dry season, and the track is in very poor condition. It's signposted from town.) This post was founded in 1898 by the British South Africa police, led by Major Harding. He was subsequently buried in the cemetery here.

The post was demolished soon after, in 1903, by which time the colonial authorities had a much firmer grip on the country. Now all that's left is a rather neglected graveyard and a monument in the shape of a cross.

Where to stay

Moorings Campsite
Tel: 032 50049; email: tsavory@zamnet.zm
Clearly signposted to the east of the main road, about 11km north of Monze, this is probably the best place to camp between Livingstone and Lusaka. Opened early in 2003, the campsite is set in a grassy field on Thea and Tom Savory's mixed 2,600-hectare farm, supplementing their income from cattle, maize and soya. The site is also well placed for Lochinvar National Park, about two hours' drive away. Tom is a keen birdwatcher, so do ask him about the area's birding potential – keen birders may spot Chaplin's barbet here.

Campers at the Moorings can pull up alongside one of a number of thatched rondavels that are dotted about the field, each with electric light and space for a large open fire, for which wood is available. The ablution block is spotlessly clean and visitors may use the small kitchen – although Thea will do home-cooked meals on request. There's also a large, airy bar area with plenty of chairs.

Visitors to the campsite are welcome to look around the farm. Thea originally came to Monze from the Netherlands to work in the local hospital; now she runs a medical clinic, primarily for the farm's permanent workers and their families, for whom treatment is free; other patients pay a small fee. Education is of equal importance on the farm, which effectively has its own primary school. Crucially, secondary education, too, is partially funded by the farm.

Finally, there is the Malambo Women's Craft Centre, whose primary purpose is to provide work for the local women, who come to the centre to put together quilts, cushion covers and other items ready for sale at the monthly Dutch Reformed bazaar in Lusaka. The workshop is also home on Saturday afternoons to adult education classes, with English lessons followed by a topic such as cookery or gardening. It all adds up to so much more than a campsite so it's well worth breaking your journey.

Rates: US$5 per person per night. Open all year