Getting there and away
If you want to visit the town of Victoria Falls and Zimbabwe in general and are a citizen of the USA, UK and numerous other Western countries, expect to pay heavily for the privilege, even for just a day trip, in US dollars. For US and Dutch passport holders, a single-entry visa is US$30, payable on arrival (US$45 for double entry). Citizens of the UK and many other countries pay around US$75 for a single entry. If you're driving your own vehicle in, there's a further US$10–25 (according to vehicle size) for carbon tax plus around US$10 third-party insurance. Aside from the costs, the logistics of temporarily importing your vehicle are often both time consuming and exasperating. If you are visiting for just a day, it's faster and cheaper to take a taxi or arrange a transfer.
The airport at Victoria Falls used to be busier than that at Livingstone, but this has changed. There are some scheduled services to and from Johannesburg, and Air Zimbabwe erratically runs internal Zimbabwean routes, but otherwise, aside from a few private aircraft, the airport is quiet. Within it, you'll find a small bar and restaurant serving snacks, a bank, bureau de change and several small curio/newspaper stands. There is a bar/restaurant and duty-free shop in the international departure lounge.
On departure, remember that you'll need US$20 departure tax here, in dollar notes.
If you arrive by air without having pre-booked an airport transfer, you can usually get a taxi, but you will need to change money at the airport to pay as, by law, only Zimbabwean dollars can be used, despite anyone telling you otherwise. Airline offices are:Air Zimbabwe
Tel: +263 13 44136/7; fax: +263 13 44318. You can't miss their office, next to the post office, on Livingstone Way, opposite Avis.British Airways/Comair
Tel: +263 13 42053; fax: +263 13 45825; Zimbabwe cell: 011 405 282; email: email@example.com. There is a booking office for British Airways, and their partner Comair, situated in Flame Lily Court, a small complex behind the Park Avenue café.
Victoria Falls is well connected by bus services to the town of Hwange, Hwange Safari Lodge (near Hwange National Park's Main Camp), and Bulawayo. Several normal local buses, run by Hwange Special Expresses, depart daily from the car park behind the main shopping arcade. Zimbabwe Travel (tel: +263 13 41480) offers a twice-weekly coach service from Jo'burg and Pretoria, through Bulawayo and up to the Falls and back. Buses depart from Victoria Falls back down south on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
For those in search of nostalgia, a classic overnight steam train service used to link Bulawayo with Victoria Falls. This was easily Zimbabwe's best train journey, and a great way to arrive at (or perhaps to leave) the Falls, but it is not certain if it is still running.