Mfuwe Lodge has always stood in a prime location at the heart of the South Luangwa National Park, where the game is prolific and relaxed. It overlooks the picturesque Mfuwe Lagoon in the centre of the park's all-weather road network.

In the '80s and early '90s the lodge degenerated, until it was bought by the Bizzaro family, the owners of Club Makokola (a successful lodge in neighbouring Malawi). They demolished and rebuilt it, starting from scratch: a huge project. Completed in 1998, this has made Mfuwe Lodge one of the grandest safari lodges in Zambia. It is relatively big by standards of the Luangwa's tiny camps, accommodating up to 36 guests.

Mfuwe has 18 beautiful timber-and-thatch chalets, many of which are split level. Each overlooks the lagoon and has double or twin beds, encased in a walk-in mosquito net and cooled by a fan; plus a writing desk, minibar/fridge, tea/coffee maker, comfy chairs and rugs. The wide expanse of polished wooden flooring (dotted with rugs) opens, through sets of double-doors, on to a broad veranda. In the bathroom there's a separate toilet, a sunken bath/shower with a view, and dual wash-basins. Each chalet is beautifully designed, down to the individual fabrics and pottery used.

Mfuwe's dining/bar area shelters under a vast thatched roof, surrounded by the now-familiar wooden decking. The food is good and the bar well-stocked. Morning and afternoon/night drives are with Landrovers with three rows of seats. Walks are also possible, though keen walkers would be best to combine their stay here with time at one or more bushcamps – and favourites for this would be some of those run by the Bushcamp Company, whose office is based here. There's no doubt that this lodge is a tremendously impressive place, and a match for many of Africa's more grand establishments. If luxury is your top priority, look no further.