Tena Tena overlooks the Luangwa River at the southern end of the Nsefu sector of the park, about 20km northeast of the bridge at Mfuwe. Tena Tena is not only a widely recognised name in safari circles, it's also one of the park's best camps. Accommodation is in large canopy-and-thatch structures – each set on a solid base with twin (or double) beds inside, and an en-suite shower and toilet at the rear. These tents are large, comfortable and insect-proof. They're all spaced well apart and set into quite thick vegetation, allowing one side of the tent to open up almost completely. There is an unobtrusive single strand of electric wire surrounding the camp, to discourage elephants from wandering through.

Tena has a dining area and also a separate, well-stocked bar (with small library) under the shade of a spreading Natal mahogany tree. It's lit by a generator in the evening, which is usually switched off as the last person goes to bed. Tena's been built on a lovely sweeping bend in the river, and there's a comfortable seating area set on the bank so that you can relax and watch the river's wildlife just on the edge of camp.

Tena's activities concentrate on morning and afternoon walks, and game drives (including night drives). The guiding, like everything else at Tena, is first-class – it ranks with the best in Africa. A stay here is often combined with Nkwali, Nsefu (camp or fly-camping), or one of Robin Pope's walking safaris.