As you turn left just before the main bridge at Mfuwe, Nkwali is well signposted. Take the road for about 5km before turning left just before the end of the tarmac. Take this for about 2km before you turn right for about 4km more. Nkwali is the main base for Robin Pope Safaris. It overlooks the Luangwa and the park beyond from the Lupande GMA which encompasses some beautiful tall acacia and ebony woodlands, a favourite haunt for giraffe and elephant.

Each of Nkwali's comfortable, airy rooms has a thatched roof resting on wicker-work, creamy-white walls, and a double bed (or two twin beds) surrounded by a large walk-in mosquito net. At the back of each chalet the en-suite shower is open to the sky, while the toilet is enclosed in a small thatched hut. All the chalets have views over the river and are on mains power, with a back-up generator.

Nkwali's bar is spectacularly built around an ebony tree, and there's a small waterhole behind the dining room that often attracts game very close to the camp. Nkwali's food is predictably good and the camp feels rustic, but very stylishly so. It's usual to combine time here with time at Tena Tena and/or Nsefu Camps, further north.

In addition, in 2003, RPS opened a new private 5-bed house here, known as Robin's House. It stands on the riverbank, under a grove of large ebony trees near the main camp's swimming pool. Inside, the house has been stylishly decorated, with traditional African touches. It has a central sitting room and two large bedrooms (one double and one triple), each with its own bathroom. Large windows give great views across the river. If you say here then you have the option of taking your meals at the main camp, or having a chef come to cook them here – so it's ideal for families and/or those seeking a little more privacy.

Most trips from Nkwali will be drives into the park, which is mostly accessed over the conveniently close Nkwali Pontoon. Walks are led into both the park and in the surrounding GMA; often you'll just cross the river by boat and walk from there. The camp has permission to run walking safaris throughout the year.