(16 rooms, 20 tents on platforms, camping) off Sichango Rd, near the Boat Club. Contact Safari Par Excellence, PO Box 60407, Livingstone; tel: 03 320606/7 or 320598 or +263 11 200711; fax: 03 320609; email: waterfront@zamnet.zm; www.safpar.com or www.zambezisafari.com

This large and affordable riverside resort complex, within the unfenced area of MOT National Park, incorporates a range of facilities on a beautiful spot, formerly known as the Makumbi launch site. To get here, leave Livingstone towards the Falls on Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd, then turn right at the signpost by Tunya Lodge towards the river and the national park. Secure and private, the complex has a stunning setting and is one of the best places around to view spectacular Zambezi sunsets.

The main thatch-and-pole building has a magnificent view over the river and contains the reception, booking office and a small souvenir shop. A spacious restaurant and teak bar (with satellite TV) both have plenty of seating indoors and out. Outside, amongst palm trees, is a lovely sunken pool surrounded by teak decking, where lounge chairs are set overlooking the river. Near by, eight large A-frame thatched chalets contain separate en-suite double or twin rooms, at ground level, with a patio and choice of river or garden views. The upper level comprises the larger executive suites with a queen bed, separate lounge area, good-size bathroom, and deck offering sweeping river views. Also up here are three spacious family rooms with four single beds and a deck, overlooking the garden. The rooms are all very comfortable, light and airy with teak furniture, quality fabrics and ethnic touches.

Beyond the main building is the Adventure Village which has a large natural-style rock pool, another bar and a thatched auditorium where daily activity briefings are given and rafting videos are shown in the evening accompanied by a barbecue. There are 20 permanent tents perched on wooden platforms along the river, each with two beds with all bedding and linen (or you can bring your own). Nearby ablutions are clean and spacious and contain flush toilets and hot and cold showers. Further along is a separate grassed camping area, with its own ablutions, barbecue and washing-up area, that can take about 60 campers.

The Waterfront is SafPar's one-stop-shop, where their own 'Adventure Centre' booking office offers a full range of activities and excursions – many of which they operate themselves. Among these are two boats offering river cruises directly from the Waterfront's own jetty. The Makumbi is the larger, more upmarket cruise boat offering breakfast, lunch, sunset or dinner cruises, while a smaller pontoon boat does the traditional booze cruise route or caters for smaller groups. Both offer free snacks and unlimited drinks.